Restaurateur Jeremy King has voiced strong criticism of online influencers, describing them as a particular irritant degrading the dining experience. He complains that gastronomy is being turned into a film set, with guests arriving with suitcases and tripods solely to take photos for social media.
However, the restaurant industry's protestations carry a hint of hypocrisy. For years, many establishments have actively redesigned themselves for Instagram, curated "experiences" for social media, and offered free meals to content creators, hoping their posts would fill tables more effectively than traditional advertising.
This debate is part of a broader culture war around influencers, including a #de-influencing movement on TikTok. Critics express concerns about consumerism, privacy, and young people turning themselves into brands online.
Despite the criticism, influencing is a booming sector. Unilever's CEO recently announced plans to hire significantly more influencers, citing consumer distrust of conventional corporate messaging. Data shows a growing number of young high earners, some of whom are influencers converting online attention into cash and celebrity.
While influencers are often disparaged as vacuous, the reality for most is a grueling, algorithm-chasing slog with low pay. Only a tiny minority achieve significant financial success. Building a following requires consistent content creation, editing, and resilience against online criticism—a form of modern entrepreneurship that demands considerable skill and stamina.